Thursday, November 24, 2011

Gratefulness

Being part of the Horn of Africa crisis assessment has reminded me how I ought to be thankful. Drought in the Horn of Africa, coupled with conflict in Somalia, has affected over 13 million people. The Famine Early Warning Systems Network, FEWSNET, reported that this year was among the driest since 1950. The Horn of Africa encompasses Somalia, Ethiopia, Eritrea, Djibouti and Kenya. It’s one of the most food insecure regions in the world, characterized by frequent droughts and conflict. However, there have been parts of Kenya that have not experienced food scarcity. My home town is one of them.



Nyeri town is situated about 150 km (93 miles) north of Kenya's capital Nairobi, in the fertile Central Highlands, lying between the eastern base of the Aberdare (Nyandarua) Ranges and the western slopes of Mount Kenya. Temperatures range between 12°-28°C (53°-82°F). Rainfall average per annum is ~1100mm.
Nyeri is an agricultural town and food is always in plenty. When I look around, I can’t help but be grateful. Lush green fields, forests, rolling hills….

I am grateful for my town, that not many families are starving.  I do not take that for granted.
I will continue to pray for those affected by drought and do what I can to help.

Sunday, November 13, 2011

Visit to Adama Village

Our next needs assessment was in Adama, one of the villages in Madogo division, Tana River district. There are 80-100 households in the area. The village is about 40 km (1 hour drive on rugged roads) from Garissa town.
When we got there, we talked to the village chief who introduced us to the villagers and explained the purpose of our visit. The people were very welcoming and were excited to have us there. Since I speak Swahili, I was the liaison between my American friends and the villagers. I translated back and forth and sometimes attempted translating Somali but this prompted lots of laughter. It wasn’t really mean; it was actually amusing—even to me.

Mostly it was the men who articulated the village needs. The women looked afraid, almost timid. I talked to the village chief and explained that since women take care of the children, they are likely to know their needs better. The chief then encouraged the women to speak up. They hesitated but after some time, one of them raised her hand and said. “Watoto hawajapewa chanjo” (Our children have not been immunized). Encouraged by her bravery, the other women began to share their views. In the end it was a successful meeting and I felt that there was genuine participation by community members.

Our organization did not want to treat the people as victims, rather as people with rights, abilities and skills. Treating recipients of aid as victims strips them of their dignity.  Corbett & Fikkert (2009) argue that this dynamic confirms that agencies are superior and that recipients are inferior. Denying affected people genuine participation fails to recognize their capacities and contradicts the Biblical view that God has bestowed different gifts and abilities in all. I do not claim that we are perfect, but I think this is a good start.

Saturday, November 12, 2011

Stuck in the middle of nowhere

One of the areas that we conducted the HoA crisis assessment was Modagashe, a small town which is about 140 km from Garissa. On our way there, we saw lots of guinea fowls, camels, giraffes, gazelles and zebras. Of course, my American friends were mesmerized and took lots of pictures.


                                          
Although it had rained heavily the previous night—the first rain in three years, our land cruiser did fine. However, on our way back, it began raining again. The road is not paved and before long, we found ourselves stuck in deep mire.

We did everything we could. We dug around the tires and placed wood bits by the tires. We even tried to winch it out by tying a steel cable to a tree but it broke. So there we were in the middle of nowhere, no cell phone coverage.  One of my American friends said: ‘I bet there’s no Triple A here huh?’ We all laughed and I said: ‘This is Africa my friend.’

The sun was beginning to retreat and dusk was fast approaching. We had heard of a kidnapping of two Spanish doctors in Dadaab earlier that day. Dadaab was about 60km from where we were but we felt like sitting ducks.
We kept pushing the vehicle and adding bits of wood around the tires. Meanwhile I told my American friends of lions who were probably lurking behind the shadows waiting for the night to set in. I told them of leopards, the strong African cats who prefer to hunt at night. Those stories were motivation enough to push harder and finally we got out. Phew!

The way back was full of uncertainties. It was still raining hard and the roads were becoming worse. The vehicle was moving at a snail pace. Earlier that day when we were enjoying the ride and admiring giraffes, I had told my colleague how happy I was to be back in Africa and in the field. I had felt so good to be breathing fresh air and be in the wild. But now I wasn’t so sure. My clothes were all muddy, my feet were wet and I was very hungry and cold and far away from home. I started missing life in the US Although I did not enjoy winter at all). I started doubting whether I coming back home was the right decision.

A colleague interrupted my thoughts. “I know what you are thinking. You wish you had never left.” I nodded. She had been in the UK for years but had decided to come back to Kenya. She explained that she had had the same doubts but with time, she had gotten used to working in Kenya among the needy and was now content. I know I love my country. I know I am passionate about working among the needy. I know I enjoy working in places where others are afraid to go. But I am yet to find that inner peace that says. Relax; you are in the right place. In the meantime however, I will continue to try and enjoy being at home. For though I get stuck in miry clay in the middle of nowhere, Kenya is my country and my love.






Thursday, November 10, 2011

Horn of Africa Crisis Assessment

I have been home for more than three months now. It has been great spending time with family and friends. However, am back to work and doing what I love most—working in Africa.  I am now a Development Specialist with Safe Harbor International (SHI), a relief and development organization. SHI is interested in responding to the Horn of Africa (HoA) Crisis.

The Horn of Africa encompasses Somalia, Ethiopia, Eritrea, Djibouti and Kenya. It is one of the most food insecure regions in the world, characterized by frequent droughts and conflict. Drought in the Horn of Africa coupled with conflict in Somalia has placed over 13 million people in need of immediate assistance. Most of those currently affected are Somali refugees who have resettled in Dadaab camps and Garissa (NE Kenya) as well as areas along the border of Ethiopia.

We have been conducting a needs assessment in the Greater Garissa district, one of the hard hit areas in Kenya. The purpose of the Horn of Africa crisis assessment is to evaluate how SHI can best respond to the crisis.

We traveled from Garissa to Nairobi by road. The journey is usually about seven hours but it took us about nine because one of our land cruisers got a flat tire—twice in the middle of nowhere. Of course my American friends were scared. I assured them that we were more that 100 miles from the Kenya-Somali border and chances of any attack was 0.01%.










As the men were changing the tire, I walked to the nearest shelter and started chatting with the owners. According to them, rain has not fallen for a long time. All their animals have died and they have no other source of food. The now rely on handouts.

After we resumed our journey, I kept thinking about that family. I thought sometimes I take things for granted. I take for granted that there is food on the table at least 3 times a day. I take for granted that I have a good roof over my head. I take for granted that I have running water in my apartment.
I am reminded that I need to be thankful--always.


                                           

Friday, June 17, 2011

Son of the Drought

Son of the Drought

His hair, a hodgepodge of brown—almost red, tiny but tight knots

 Atop a thousand ringworm patches on the dry dirty-white scab

His eyes tightly shut like a green immature bean pod

Son of the drought

Eyelids strained—an undersized sheet over the big eyeballs

Face once ebony-black, now a shriveled pallid cover over the small skull

Salty dried up tears leaving cream -white streaks on his bony cheeks

Teeth tightly clung together like the jaws of a vise

Lips cracked like the dry and thirsty earth on which he now lays

Son of the drought

His ribs jutted like jagged razor wires

 Against the taut dehydrated skin—a collage of caked grime and sand

Arms—withered protrusions from the frail body

Legs like the thin stalks of the murangi

Son of the drought

Stomach bloated like a twin-pregnancy

Yet an empty den, pangs gnawing inside

His heartbeat feeble like faint whispers of a non-existent wind

Over this empty expanse of bare land

Stripped naked by the ferocious hand of the cruel sun

That has rendered these once fertile plains

Where the earth mated with the skies

And the sound of their pleasure brought forth dancing

Those were the days when wine flowed like the waters of the great African Nile

And fruit burst forth like the breasts of the Swazi queens

When the earth’s urine would flood the plains with fresh waters

Days long gone



Son of the drought

His last breath painful
like his heart’s been cut into a thousand pieces






Saturday, February 19, 2011

Beautiful Black Nights of my Childhood

Beautiful black nights of my childhood
Where retiring weavers fill the quiet
With occasional soft chirps that make eerie harmony with the cricket’s song

And the fireflies fly and flutter by
Making a collage of beautiful fires against the naked night

We gather around her, she whose crown is white and gray
And we listen to the tales of her childhood
Our laughter echoes through the beautiful black African night
Our hands on our smooth black chins
And eager heads drawn closer and closer
To the black nights of her childhood

Till leopard eyes light their fires
Beckoning us who are unafraid to let the rulers of this black night live

So we retire to our beds
Blessed by the one whose crown is white and gray
Whose peace is a blanket over our innocent caramel bodies.

I long for you,
Ebony nights of my childhood
I long for hyena laughs
And I long for the village drunkard’s song
I long for the tales around neighbourhood fires
And night laughter under God’s light

I long for African nights of my childhood.

Friday, January 21, 2011

The Baboon story

This story is dedicated to Saybel Nunez, my Venezuelan friend who while we both lived in Maine would put me on the spot every time we met new people. She would always say: “Negrita—which simply means a beautiful dark-skinned woman in Venezuelan Spanish—tell them the baboon story!” And Americans, always fascinated by African wildlife would surround me, begging me to color the evening with an African sunset, white zebra stripes and other colors of an African jungle.
So, I would close my eyes and remember the beautiful caramel days and ebony black nights of my childhood. And the memories would flood me like dew flowing down the slopes of Mt. Kenya. Memories of finding some leopard’s cubs and taking them home as pets (a stupid thing to do); of monkeys stealing our clothes as we swam in the stream, of my cousins and I baptizing a baby gazelle we had captured; baboon drinking my dad’s beer….
We live close to the Aberdares National Park in Central. Though there is an electric fence that separates us from the forest, animals sometimes find their way into our community. Whatever animal it is, people always try to go on with life as usual. Well, not always—if it is an elephant, a buffalo, a gazelle—any edible animal, people try to capture it for meat. The good news is, an elephant or a buffalo can feed lots of families and if there is shortage of meat at Kaberere’s (the local butcher) people ask one another: “have you seen a poor elephant that looks stranded?” The bad news is that sometimes during drought, many animals die and the government tries to save the few that survive by asking people to simply redirect a strayed animal back to the park. Don’t ask me how.
If it is a lion that has lost its way, then people also get lost until the wildlife police capture the animal. The most annoying animals are the baboons. They will harvest your food faster than a combined harvester does the wheat. They will steal your baby if you don’t have a watchful nanny, they will drink your dad’s beer….
One day, I was playing hide and seek with my cousins. I hid behind up a mango tree that was close to the house. Now, down the farm near the stream was huge mugumo (fig) tree that was so thick that you could not see the branches. A baboon family nicknamed by my brother as ‘the mafia’ lived on that tree. We could hear them calling each other, “Gop! Gop!” This afternoon, everything was quiet except for a light wind blowing over the hot December sun.
I was going about my business hiding when I heard some laughter up the tree. Thinking it was one of cousins hiding there, I whispered, “shut up! Or they will find us!” My cousin who usually would have responded with a “you shut up!” did not say anything so I looked up. Resting on the branches were about fifteen baboons. They looked back at me, and then started climbing down.
How I managed to run as fast as Mike Bolt, I don’t know. But I ran very fast towards the house at the same time screaming on top of my lungs: “the mafia! The mafia!” Hide in Pirate’s house (my brother nicknamed our grandma ‘pirate’ but that’s a story for another day) Anyway we all ended up in her house which was just next to ours. From the window, we watched as fifteen baboons got into our living room—I had forgotten to close the door. They ransacked the house—threw sofa cushions all over the place, ate fruit that was on the table, broke the baby’s (my sister) thermos that had porridge in it…but most distressingly, my dad had some left some beer on the shelf—and we watched in amazement as they pried the bottles open with their teeth. They drank all the beer, toasting as they had probably seen my dad do as he drank with friends.
We have no idea how much they drank for they took the bottles with them. My dad later claimed that it was over twenty beers but knowing my dad, that number was a little too high. Anyway, the mafia left as quietly as they had come but left behind a mess that took three days to fix.
When my parents came home that evening, they could not be convinced that my cousins and I had not been mischievous. However, knowing the baboons were capable of anything, he believed us but decided to test them.
The following day a quiet afternoon, my dad put five beers on the shelf, left the door open and we all hid in grandma’s house. Half an hour later, the mafia quietly walked into the living room, opened the beers and began the party.

Introduction

When I was little, my dad, who sometimes drove the coastal train, would take me, and sometimes my brothers and sister with him on his journeys along the Kenyan coast. I would sleep on his lap at night but during the day, he would tell stories of the towns we passed. Along the Tsavo, he would tell me about the man eating lions that devoured the Indian railway construction workers in 1898 and who were ready to pounce on me if I didn’t finish my veggies. In Malindi, he told me that this was where Vasco da Gama picked up his pilot to navigate with the monsoon winds to India. In Lamu he introduced me to 'his' marine national reserve. According to dad, his great-great-grandfather discovered an unspoilt village on the mainland about 150 km east of Lamu which he named Kiunga—our family name. A few days later, he also discovered the enchanted waters close to that remote village. Those waters became the Kiunga Marine National Reserve, which is a major tourist attraction. Dad’s stories were sometimes true and sometimes not. He usually embellished them, and if anyone raised any questions, he would say that it is only boring story tellers who do not spice their tales.
My favourite city was Mombasa because I enjoyed looking at the blue sea.  I would always wish I was a bird that could fly beyond the horizon to unknown lands.
Well, I did get into one of those birds and flew beyond the horizon—to a land an ocean away where I have to take the train every day to grad school. Sometimes I read for my Economics class, sometimes I fill my crossword or Sudoku, sometimes I write a poem, but most of the times I love to close my eyes and remember dad—I remember his dark skin glowing, I remember him carrying me on his shoulders as I we walked to buy candy, I remember him holding my sister when she was born.
I remember his dancing eyes as he told me stories.
He told me once, “Soon you will be telling me your stories. And you will be retelling mine.” Time has come to fulfill this.
I write this blog on the train on the way from school. Sometime it is memories from my childhood, sometimes it is my stories that I would have told dad if he were alive. Enjoy.